Deserts, Riads & Coastal Towns: My 12-Day Morocco Itinerary
- Leigh Williams
- Feb 2
- 5 min read
Morocco is one of those places where there’s always something new to take in. Deserts, cities, mountains, coastlines, riads, markets, tours. It’s diverse, colourful, and constantly surprising.
I spent 12 days travelling through Morocco, mixing iconic highlights with slower moments, photography stops, and places that genuinely caught me off guard. Every few days the scenery shifted completely, which kept the trip feeling fresh without ever feeling rushed.
This itinerary is ideal for first-timers, photographers, or anyone wanting a really solid introduction to Morocco without trying to see absolutely everything.
Accommodation prices are for two adults.
Days 1 & 2 - Marrakech
I spent my first two nights in Marrakech, which felt like the perfect way to ease into Morocco before heading into the mountains and desert.
At the airport, there’s a dedicated taxi station where you can book and pay by card or cash. We paid 110 MAD and were dropped at Jemaa el-Fnaa, which was a great reference point. From there it was about a 10-minute walk to our riad.
Arriving at night throws you straight into the energy of the city. It’s lively and busy, but also exciting, and we found it surprisingly easy to navigate.
🛏 Riad Casa Sophia – $200 AUD
📍 Worth seeing: Madrasa Ben Youssef
Day 3 – Marrakech to Imlil (Atlas Mountains)
In the morning we picked up our rental car from the airport with DiRent and drove towards the Atlas Mountains. This drive was a real highlight and gave us our first sense of how varied Morocco’s landscapes are. Winding roads, wide open views, and then suddenly snow-capped mountains appearing in the distance.
Imlil itself is small, peaceful, and very charming. Our accommodation that night was one of those places that stays with you long after you leave. A beautiful room with a balcony overlooking the mountains, goats wandering the hillside, and a fireplace in the corner. It felt cosy, quiet, and like a complete change of pace from Marrakech. I genuinely wish we’d stayed an extra night.
🛏 Hiba Lodge – $47 AUD
Day 4 – Imlil to Skoura (via Tizi n’Tichka Pass)
This was a really scenic driving day through the famous Tizi n’Tichka Pass. We were travelling in winter and there had been heavy snowfall the week before, so everything was blanketed in white. Despite that, the roads were clear and easy to drive, which made the whole experience even more enjoyable.
As you continue on, the landscape slowly shifts. Mountains give way to drier plains, and before you know it, it starts to feel more desert-like. We carried on to Skoura and stayed in a traditional 300-year-old clay home.
The family hosts were incredibly welcoming, and the food here was easily the best of the entire trip. It was one of those places that feels special the moment you arrive. We also happened to be there for New Year’s Eve, which made the stay even more memorable. The hosts cooked a beautiful dinner, dressed us and the other guests in traditional outfits, and the night turned into music and dancing. It was so much fun, completely unexpected, and a really lovely way to welcome the new year.
🛏 Heritage House – $88 AUD
Day 5 – Skoura to Zagora
This was one of the biggest driving days of the trip, but it was filled with beautiful scenery.
We visited Dadès Gorge and ended up spending much longer there than planned. It’s well worth taking your time here, and the winding hairpin roads were a lot of fun to drive.
From there we continued on to Todgha Gorge before heading towards Zagora. It was a long day, and we arrived late, ready to slow things down for the night.
If I were to do this day again, I would either stay somewhere closer in between or skip Todgha Gorge to better manage timing.
🛏 Riad Dar Susan – $77 AUD
Day 6 – Zagora to the Desert
To the desert!
We drove towards M’hamid and met the owner of our desert camp at a pinned location just off the main road. He was waiting on his motorbike to guide us in, and without him it would have been very hard to find the camp.
Somehow we managed to drive across rough desert terrain in a Kia Picanto, which felt slightly ridiculous but also impressive.
We sat on chairs on a small dune overlooking the camp, drinking tea and eating snacks while the light softened around us. It felt calm and surreal, and like the trip was about to shift into something really memorable.
Day 7 – Erg Chigaga (Sahara Desert)
One of the most memorable days of the entire trip. The camp hosts transferred us by 4WD to Erg Chigaga, where the big dunes are. The drive took a couple of hours and was very bumpy, but the sense of remoteness was incredible.
On the way, the weather turned. By the time we arrived, it was pouring rain. In the Sahara. Not what we expected, but it somehow made the experience even more memorable.
We waited inside with warm food while the rain passed, and once it eased, we ran straight into the dunes with a sandboard that was included. It was my first time, and I loved every second of it.
Even without sunshine, the desert was beautiful. Moody, dramatic, and endlessly interesting. Camels moving across the dunes in the distance made for some of my favourite photos of the trip.
That evening, after dinner, there was Berber singing around the fire. It felt relaxed, joyful, and genuinely special.
🛏 Authentique Berber Camp – $125 AUD
Day 8 – Desert to Aït Benhaddou to Ouarzazate
We said goodbye to the desert and headed north, stopping at Aït Benhaddou before continuing on to Ouarzazate for the night.
🛏 The accommodation here wasn’t great, so I won’t recommend it. Around $80 AUD.
Days 9 & 10 – Ouarzazate to Marrakech to Essaouira
We drove back to Marrakech to return the rental car, then caught a bus to Essaouira.
The bus journey was easy and comfortable, not luxurious in any way, but arriving at the coast felt like a refreshing change after days inland.
Essaouira quickly became a highlight of the trip. Relaxed, breezy, and completely different in energy to Marrakech. We wandered the medina, walked the city walls, and spent time at the port.
The standout was the fresh oysters straight from the harbour. The size of my hand and less than $2 AUD each!
Two nights here felt perfect, though I could easily have stayed a third.
🛏 Riad Lyon-Mogador – $269 AUD
Day 11 – Back to Marrakech
We took the bus back to Marrakech and spent our final evening with drinks and dinner at a rooftop bar, soaking up the city one last time.
🛏 Riad of the Moon – $239 AUD
Day 12 – Marrakech to Paris to Home
We spent the day wandering Marrakech at a slower pace before a late flight to Paris. We stayed overnight near CDG airport and flew home to Sydney the following morning.
🎒 What I Packed for Morocco
Split into:
Clothing
Shoes
Camera gear
All photos taken with Sony A7IV
And a 24-70mm lens
Bag that fits both the camera and lens perfectly.
Travel essentials
📸 Photography Tips for Morocco
Light is harsh midday
Mornings & evenings best
Ask before photographing people
Be respectful
Comments